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By the end of this stage, your machine will look like this (wiring optional by this stage)
|M6 hobbed stud||1|
|M6 full nut||1|
|M6 nyloc nut||2|
|M6 split washer||1|
|M6 plain washer||2|
Slide the hobbed stud through the 8mm hole in the M6-block, then fit the two 626 bearings.
Note the orientation of the stud in the image above.
Place 2 M6 plain washers onto the stud, then the large gear, the M6 full nut, the M6 split washer and finally an M6 nyloc nut.
Screw the second M6 nyloc nut onto the other end of the stud until the latter can no longer move from side to side, but can still rotate easily.
Now adjust the nuts until the hobb is aligned to the 2mm diameter holes which will guide the filament. When you are happy this is in the right position, tighten the M6 full nut inside the gear against the M6 nyloc nut.
Before fitting the motor in the next step, you may want to place 2 captive M3 nuts in the bottom of the M6-Block; they will be needed in Step 3: Idler assembly, but are very difficult to place after the motor is mounted.
If they are not snug enough to hold themselves in, cover them with a piece of sticky-tape for now.
|NEMA 14 stepper motor||1|
|M3x10mm socket set screw|
Fit the M3 nut into the recess in the small gear, then screw in the M3x10mm socket set screw. SLide this over the motor shaft with the flat on it, and tighten the M3 screw to secure the gear. Ensure the gear teeth are facing away from the motor.
Using an M3x8mm screw in the outside hole, fit the stepper motor to the M6-block, such that the two gears mesh well. Tighten this screw, then remove the hobb assembly (by removing the M6 nyloc nut furthest from the gear) so you can fit the remaining two M3x8mm screws to secure the motor.
Finally, replace the hobb assembly.
|M6x20mm socket set screw||1|
|M3 full nuts||3|
Slide the 626 bearing over the M6x20mm socket set screw and fit this into the Idler bracket.
NOTE: If your idler looks different than in the above photo, please see these instructions for assembly.
Place the idler bracket over the 3mm diameter hole in the M6-block and insert the M3x25mm screw. The springs are compressed using the M3x45mm screws pulling against the captive M3 nuts which you must slide into the hexagonal holes behind the motor.
Just below where the 3mm x 25mm screw goes as the hinge pin is a slot. Slide the 5mm nut in here and push it in until you can see it centred in the large hole in the flat side of the body of the extruder. Screw the pneumatic fitting (If you are not sure what this is, you used one on the hot end.) into this nut. The bowden tube is the flexible translucent tube. This will push fit into the end of the pneumatic fitting. The other end of the tube connects to the hot end. You may want to wait until you are almost ready to print before you connect this tube as it may get in the way while you tidy the wires and connect things up.
Loosen two M6 nuts from the top cross bars (on the opposite side to the X axis motor), fit the laser cut extruder drive holder, then tighten the two M6 nuts back up against this. Fit the extruder drive mechanism to the extruder drive holder using an M3x20mm screw and an M3 nyloc nut. The extruder block can be spaced off from the extruder drive holder by sandwiching an M3 nut between the two (on the M3 screw) if you want it to hang vertically. If you want the motor to rest on the threaded rod at an angle, just put it together without the extra M3 nut.