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By the end of this stage, your machine should look like this
You will need the following tools
|M6 threaded bar x 250mm||6|
|M6 serrated washers||28|
Split the above components into two equal sets, then loosely screw them together into each frame triangle. Make sure you slide a belt clamp along the bottom M6 threaded bars, with a serrated washer and nut either side.
Place a serrated washer between the RP parts and each M6 nut. You frame triangles should now look like this
Before moving on to the next step, we need to tighten the nuts on both frame triangles. For each frame, measure the distance between the vertices on all 3 sides. The distance you should be aiming for is 207mm. The main thing is to make them all the same. The better aligned your frame is, the better your prints will be when printing large and/or tall objects.
Tighten all the M6 nuts ensuring the distance between vertices of 207mm is maintained.
|M6 threaded bar x 185mm||4|
|M6 serrated washer||20|
Again split the above components into 2 equal sets. You will assemble 2 top bars (identical), and 2 bottom bars (identical). Each of the cross bars is symmetrical.
So for the top bars, you will need (starting from the middle of the M6 threaded bar): serrated washer, 2 M6 nuts, serrated washer, bar-clamp, serrated washer, 2 M6 nuts, serrated washer, (and repeat in the other direction).
And for the bottom bars: 1 x 626 bearing, M6 nut, serrated washer, (and repeat in the other direction, except for the bearing).
|M6 threaded bar x 285mm||3|
|M6 smooth rods x 235mm||2|
|M6 serrated washer||20|
Firstly screw the cross bars into one of the triangles, then screw the second triangle to the other end of the cross bars
Now we need to slide the two top bars through the top frame vertices. Slide each bar through one vertex, then fit one serrated washer, 2 M6 nuts and another serrated washer before sliding the bar through the opposite vertex. Next, slide a Z motor mount onto each ends of the top bars. This may need a little force as the holes through the z motor mounts tend to be quite a tight fit on the M6 threaded bars (it’s usually a good idea to make sure you can push a spare length of M6 threaded bar into each of the z motor mount holes before trying to fit them to your frame).
Before tightening the M6 nuts on the top bars, slide the bottom cross bar through the 2 bottom bar clamps. You do not need M6 nuts or washers either side of these bar clamps. At each end of this bottom cross bar, fit an M6 nut, a serrated washer, a bar clamp, a serrated washer, and another M6 nut. You can now slide the 2 Z smooth rods (those of 235mm) into place.
At this stage, the frame should be quite loose, so just jiggle everything around until it all the angles look about right. Once you are happy with this step, you can tighten the nuts on the cross bars. The distance between the frame vertices along the cross bars should be 143mm. When tightening the M6 nuts on the top cross bars, please note that you do not need to tighten the nuts which clamp against the Z smooth rods too much, only enough to stop the smooth rod from sliding down. If you slip two washers into the groove on the Z-motor mount (with the threaded rod run through their holes) you will be able to clamp your frame solidly and grip the Z-rods without over stressing the plastic. Your kit doesn’t come with these washers. 1/4″ washers work well for this.
Before tightening the bar clamps on the bottom cross bar, slide the Y axis smooth rods (270mm) into place and use a set square to get the angle of the Z smooth rods correct. Make sure you get the right smooth rod for the Y-axis; if you swap them you will have to go back and take things apart again.
You can now tighten the M6 nuts along the bottom cross bar.
And you will now have an assembled eMAKER Huxley frame
The next stage is to assemble the Y axis.